There’s a personal narrative behind each of Rachel Antonoff‘s idiosyncratic collections and their creative, correlating videos. This season, the spunky designer referenced one of her favorite novels, Marijane Meaker’s 1972 queer coming-of-age classic, Shockproof Sydney Skate. Antonoff paid tribute to the book’s female protagonist, whose pockets and handbags are always full of matchbooks, with a scratchy matchbook plaid found on casual cotton separates, and a pair of brushed-wool overalls featuring “No Smoking” embroidery. Other playful touches included a dashed-off tic-tac-toe motif that turned up on feminine silk wrap dresses and the lining of vibrant wrap coats, as well as an illustrated print depicting a cast of eccentric ladies, which ties into the Fall film.

In the short flick, Antonoff portrays a group of oddball women getting ready—each in her own peculiar way—for a night out. It’s a celebration of their various primping routines and such “mundane secrets” as draping stray hairs over house plants to interpretive dancing. All of the preparation leads up to the characters playing in an orchestra led by renowned contemporary artist Laurie Simmons. In general, there’s an offbeat humor about everything Antonoff does. Her novelty items may have the most immediate appeal, but the rest of the retro-preppy range shouldn’t be overlooked. Other highlights from the new lineup included color-blocked miniskirts, trompe l’oeil knits, and schoolgirl jackets. Antonoff also whipped up several nice trouser styles; one pair was pleated with ultrawide legs, while another fit like sweatpants with an elastic waistband. With the latter, Antonoff wanted to address “how to feel your absolute most comfortable and still be presentable enough to leave your house.” Surely, her customers will appreciate that emphasis on ease.
—Brittany Adams
Runway Feed