Nick Cave’s dynamic Soundsuits inspired the exuberance of Aimee Cho’s latest collection. “Of course I’d never compare my work to his,” she said. “But I did think a lot about these sculptures he makes that come to life on a body.”

The electric jolt was felt in a washed fluorescent-coral army jacket—refined by sleek pockets—and a black barn coat, the back embroidered with an abstract orange and gold floral that almost resembled a goldfish. While those particular toppers gave off a casual vibe, there were great office-appropriate items, too. A Japanese sweatshirt material, for instance, was patched together with a coral-accented basket-weave jacquard to form a surprisingly unfussy blazer. Cho is offering her standard styles—a trench, mini trench, and cropped peacoat—in a cotton woven with metal to make it water resistant. The subtle shimmer from the metal adds just the teensiest bit of opulence to otherwise utilitarian pieces. (No, it doesn’t rust.)

The designer launched Gryphon in 2006 as a collection of coats, and after veering into ready-to-wear for a while, she has chosen to refocus strictly on outerwear. That tunnel vision is good for the market, since one can never have too many coats, especially ones as special—and functional—as these.
—Lauren Sherman
Runway Feed